Khiva, Uzbekistan

(i think this is my 5th attempt at posting this cos this computer keeps crashing!)

Ashgabat was the end of our first trip which called for a change of passengers. Unfortunately we had to say goodbye to Jim and Sian, they had two weddings to go to in England, before returning in Tashkent. American John also had to leave us as his Uzbeck visa application was denied. He was pretty gutted as things were looking hopeful for a while. The atmosphere in the truck is certainly different, quite a lot quieter without Jim's out-there laugh and patriotic banter with John. Five new passengers joined in Ashgabat, who are settling into the overlanding thing really well, and it is nice to discuss new experiences and travel stories etc.

Three days ago, we visited the world famous Ashgabat Sunday Market where one can buy absolutely anything. We mainly were looking through the carpet and souvenir sections, but camels, goats, kitchen sinks, spare parts, old soviet ladas were all for sale. Renee (trip leader) and I were feeling slightly worse for ware after a particularly heavy final evening with John, so we found a lovely accomadating lady who let us sit on her carpet for a while. In return, I felt I had to buy something from her; no- not a carpet!? but a embroided head scarf.

We then set off into the vast expanse of the Karakum Desert, and bushcamped in the middle of nowhere. Only a nomad's yurt and herd of goats were in sight. Early the next morning, I went for a run through huge sand-dunes in spectacular scenary. Our guide showed us around the ruined city of Kongye-Urgench. We spent the next night in a homestay farmhouse surrounded by cotton fields, turkeys, chickens and cattle. We played Backgammon way into the night watched closely by the children of the household who were very much intrigued.

Today we crossed into Uzbekistan in a mere 4 hours, it could have been a lot worse! we are now staying in Khiva, an ancient city perfectly preserved into a surreal network of brick alleyways, minarets, and blue tiled domes of mosques. We have a 4 hour guided tour tomorrow morning.